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Edited by Jane Marion Featuring Suzanne Loudermilk, Mike Unger, and Lydia Woolever PHOTOS BY SCOTT SCHMAN Spot Illustrations by Jason Schneider Opening Spread: Styled by Janelle Erlichman Diamond. Hair & make-up: Brian Oliver and model: Kyler Garner, both from T.H.E. The Artists Agency. Shot on location at the Schultz Crab House.
Crab Place In Baltimore
“How do I love you?” Elizabeth Barrett Browning once asked. When it comes to Maryland crab, we can hardly count the ways-there are too many. But let’s try to show our ardor. Every state has its pride, from Maine blueberries to Idaho potatoes. Here, in the Mid-Atlantic, Maryland is for crab lovers. With no disrespect to oysters and rockfish, the blue crab reigns as the undisputed king of the Chesapeake Bay. And while they can be found as far north as Nova Scotia and as far south as Uruguay, one-third of the country’s blue crab harvest comes from our local waters.
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In Maryland, there are two seasons – crab season (which is May through November) and waiting for crab season. The second occurs in the colder months when the crabs descend to the bottom of the bay and hibernate during the winter. As the thermostat rises, the crustaceans rise with the warm waters and swim into crab traps, where they are as smooth and greasy as can be – not to mention salty-sweet and buttery in a way that is unique to us. – brackish waters. Sure, you can travel to Birmingham or Boise and see a “Baltimore-style” or “Maryland-style” crab cake on the menu, but there’s no truth in advertising. It’s our best and we’re happy to throw down the gauntlet – make the mallet – to anyone who argues otherwise. Unlike other blue crab states—namely North Carolina, Texas, and Louisiana—where hard shells are often boiled, we steam our bay beauties, which means they stay mustardy and moist, and of course there is our iconic brand of crab spice in our iconic home state, Old Bay.
And while it may sound too obvious, it goes without saying that there’s only one place to eat authentic Maryland crab — and that’s smack dab in the Old Line State, where there’s an almost religious fervor surrounding this seafood. We have a bit of bad news on that front: Due to the demand for this seasonal seafood, as well as recurring visa issues for crab handlers, Maryland crabs are not always available. In fact, most seafood houses – even in season – supplement their local catch with other inland crab, and the meat can come from as far away as Asia. That said, other blues make an acceptable alternative, since not so many places serve Maryland crabs. Your best bet? Always ask where the crab meat comes from.
Crabs have long been an essential local protein along the Chesapeake. As early as 1,200 BC, these crustaceans were an important food source and were eaten continuously through the 17th century, when Native Americans and early colonists enjoyed eating them. Although crab shells are fragile and infrared, their archaeological remains have been turned up at sites across the estuary, from places like George Washington’s Mt. Vernon to Sukeek’s Cabin, a 19th-century African-American homestead in Calvert County.
Given this history, it’s safe to say that our craving for crabs runs deep in our DNA – and this time of year the sinking begins in full force. And we don’t just serve crab cakes, hard shells or soup. We use crab everywhere: wrapped in dips; stuffed into dumplings; sprinkled atop pretzels, waffles, and deviled eggs; pile high on chicken cheesesteaks – you name it. You can find crabs in their various incarnations at local seafood shacks, fine dining gardens, pizza parlors, food trucks, food halls, and malls – and even High gas stations.
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Below, get your fix, however you like to eat them. Then get ready to celebrate the return of blue crabs to a paper folding table near you – and with it, one of Maryland’s most successful traditions.
Views from the Choptank: the aftermath of a crab feast; grapefruit and orange crushes; crispy crab fritters with rémoulade and pickled vegetables; the historic entrance.
When we walked into this remote store in a Carroll County strip mall, we couldn’t help but notice the bags of shipping orders behind the counter. Takeout steamed crabs and seafood are big business here. There is also dining service, but we were not able to see the dining room immediately. Noticing our confusion as we entered through the bar, a friendly cashier directed us to a solid door that opened to a connecting room with about 10 tables. It’s a bare-bones but stylish space with murals of docked boats and photographs of scenes of crab houses. Depending on the time of year, the cooked-to-order crabs are a combination of Maryland, Virginia, and Louisiana hard shells, with the kitchen’s own seasoning. And the restaurant’s crab expertise is evident. After all, owner Dan Schuman, who runs the crab house with his brother, Mike, has been in the business since 1971, putting time into the Randallstown seafood market before opening Captain Dan’s in 2003. Simply put, the thing is the crabs.
People love cracking crabs while sitting by the water, but Captain James takes it a step further by giving guests the opportunity to eat crabs by the water and on a boat. Okay, not an actual boat, but a boat-shaped restaurant with a crab house next to it with a large deck on the water between Canton and Fells Point. That central location no doubt adds to the restaurant’s popularity, but the place wouldn’t have hung around as long if it hadn’t been of such high quality. When we visited on a spring Friday evening, we found both the food and service to be excellent. The attitude comes with a price tag: These were among the most expensive crabs found, ranging from $100 for a medium dozen to $155 for jumbos (they’re only sold by the half dozen or dozen). They were well seasoned and well cooked with sweet meat. Corn on the cob, cold pitchers of beer, and an order of delicious boardwalk-flavored fries rounded out our meal, which was just as good as the view of the Patapsco.
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Grab a Crab: Captain James Crab House is one of the last spots in the city to offer all-you-can-eat crab (with a two-hour eating limit), available Monday through Thursday, from 4 to 9 p.m. .
Picking straight steamed crabs at the old Costas Inn school in Dundalk; Food and live music alfresco at The Choptank.
At first glance, a casual visitor might not realize that The Choptank is a place to eat fancy crabs. The outdoor area has a happy hour vibe, and cocktails flow faster than the waters of the nearby bay. But as soon as you take a seat and point at the menu, you realize that this is a crab house, after all. Before the steamed shells arrive, your table is covered with brown paper and the appropriate tools appear – mallet, knife, and even a shell cracker (for those more used to eating lobster). While we waited for the crabs (from Louisiana on our visit and local when available) to steam, we dug into a hearty mound of seafood nachos loaded with grilled fish, shrimp, and lump crab. Our half-dozen larges, coated with J.O. seasoning, mostly plump specimens, but one was light, so the kitchen threw in an extra crab.
If your crabs here taste like some of the freshest shellfish you’ve ever had, that’s because they could be straight out of the water. Owner Tony Conrad – a triple-threat waterman, restaurateur and entrepreneur (who recently arrived in Harford County) – probably just got off a boat after a morning of crustacean fishing on the bay. There are so many reasons to come here, from a free bucket of popcorn to your heart’s content to the incredibly tasty salads (not where crab houses usually shine) to scrumptious sweets (strawberry shortcakes, tiramisu) or the renewal. cantaloupe crushes. But we digress. It’s all about those delicious and reliable Maryland crabs, which arrive hot, plump, coated in the restaurant’s own proprietary seafood mix, and proudly placed on a plastic tray.
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Crab Builds: In a DIY mood? Conrad’s also has its own seafood market in Parkville, where you can buy live crabs to steam at home. While you’re there, grab a homemade crabby pretzel or a pound of spicy steamed shrimp to go.
Since 1971, Costas has been a leader on the local crab circuit and is, in many ways, a crossroads of Baltimore, hosting everyone from families just leaving a church service to port workers swinging in for half a dozen shells hard after their move to. couples enjoying date night. The restaurant-like menu also features a mix of dishes set in the city’s eastern stretches—things like Italian lasagna, Greek gyros, and, you guessed it, lots of crab dishes. Everywhere you look, there are vintage photos of Lexington Market and Preakness, and televisions to watch everything from NASCAR to Orioles games. Of course, there
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